How to Spot Authentic Vintage Pottery vs. Modern Reproductions

If you have ever picked up a pretty jug in a charity shop and wondered if it was truly vintage, you are in good company. I still get a little thrill when I turn a piece over and spot a clue in the foot rim or maker’s mark. In this guide I will show you the simple checks I use when buying for the Heirloom collection so you can feel confident about what you bring home. We will look at weight and feel, glaze, marks, and the tiny details that modern reproductions often miss. By the end you will have a calm, step by step way to tell old from new, with example pieces from our shop to compare.

1) Start with the feel

Authentic older pottery often feels slightly softer and more balanced in the hand. You may notice gentle irregularities from hand finishing. Reproductions can feel glassy and uniformly perfect. Run your finger along the foot rim. A vintage foot shows wear that is smooth and honest rather than sharp or sandpaper rough from artificial distressing.

Try it on: Compare the base and finish on our 1960s Royal Standard “Minuet” milk jug with a new jug at home. You will feel the difference straight away.

2) Look at the glaze and surface

Fine crazing can occur naturally over decades. It should wander with hairline irregularity. Uniform spiderwebs that look too perfect can be a sign of forced ageing. Modern transfer prints can also sit on top of a glaze rather than under it. Tilt under light and check whether the decoration feels part of the body or sitting above it.

Helpful read: The V&A’s ceramic A to Z explains why different bodies and glazes behave as they do, which helps you read age with more confidence. Victoria and Albert Museum

3) Foot rims, stilt marks and seams

Turn your piece over. Older tableware was often kiln fired on stilts, leaving three tiny bites on the base. You may also see a hand finished foot rim with a gentle bevel. Modern slip cast reproductions sometimes show very visible mould seams or a ground base that looks newly abrasive.

Spot the story: The base on our 1988 Royal Doulton “Nimbus” jug shows period appropriate finishing and printed backstamp details that are consistent with late twentieth century production.

4) Read the backstamp like a pro

Backstamps are your best friend, but they are also the most faked. Learn the logic behind a few common British makers and you will unlock dates quickly.

• Royal Worcester: look for the intertwined W and the number 51 which references 1751, plus a year code that changes by decade. The Museum of Royal Worcester has a clear guide. Museum of Royal Worcester

• General British marks: The Potteries website lists initials and factory marks with notes about dates and variations, including warnings on fakes and forgeries. thepotteries.org

• English porcelain marks overview: A concise primer on typical English marks and how year codes evolved. Invaluable

Tip: Check the quality of the print. Genuine backstamps often show slight inking variations. Reproduction marks can look too heavy and crisp.

5) Decoration, pattern repeat and colour

Early twentieth century transfer prints often reveal tiny breaks where a transfer met a curve. Hand painted details will show lifelike variation in brush pressure and colour. If a floral spray repeats with machine precision and every rose looks cloned, you may be looking at a later reproduction.

Compare: The painterly lilies on our Nimbus jug bloom with natural variation. The fruit on Autumn’s Glory has soft tonal shading that sits comfortably within the glaze.

6) Clay body and translucence

Hold bone china to the light. Genuine bone china reads a little translucent. Earthenware is opaque and often warmer in tone. If the body looks chalk bright and plastic smooth, be cautious. The V&A’s historical overview of Wedgwood and other makers helps you understand bodies and recipes that defined each period. Victoria and Albert Museum

7) Date codes and oddities

Some factories used letter or dot codes to indicate year. Once you know where to look, you can date pieces to a specific year. Guides compiled by respected museums and auction educators walk through these systems so you can cross check quickly. Museum of Royal Worcester

8) Red flags to watch

• Backstamp printed over wear or crazing

• Artificial tea stains concentrated in crevices

• Spelling mistakes in marks

• A style that does not match the claimed date

• A price that seems far too low for the maker

9) Build your own quick checklist

1. Feel and balance

2. Glaze and surface

3. Foot rim and stilt marks

4. Backstamp and date code

5. Decoration detail and repeat

6. Clay body and light test

7. Cross check with trusted references

Save this on your phone before your next treasure hunt.

Little case study

I once found a rose sprig jug that felt perfect in the hand but had a mark that looked a touch too heavy. A quick check against the Royal Standard “Minuet” in our shop and a cross reference with a marks guide confirmed it was genuine. The giveaway was the soft wear on the foot and the way the gold trim thinned gently on the handle where fingers would rest over time.

In summary, trust your hands, your eyes and a couple of trusted references. Once you know what honest age looks and feels like, you will start seeing the tells right away. Which sign will you check first on your next find? Tell me in the comments. If you would like first dibs on fresh arrivals, join the newsletter for early access and a friendly little perk.

Shop the look

• Explore more tableworthy finds in Heirloom

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• Hosting this weekend? Warm amber bowls make seasonal sides glow. See the 1960s set